Day 151 – Magical MONA

20131011_RCH_4035 20131011_RCH_4032 20131011_RCH_4036 20131011_RCH_4033Well, like we thought, we woke to a winter wonderland outside. It wasn’t nice snow by any stretch of the imagination, but it was snow. It was also quite cold, and since our heater doesn’t work (sigh) it was a cold, cold morning (doubly so because my slippers got wet walking through the slushy snow taking photographs… Snow isn’t that novel to us, but sleeping in a van in the snow is. I’ve done it once, now I don’t have to do it again – though, to be honest, we were perfectly warm once we were in bed.

We were only an hour’s drive from Hobart, so we didn’t waste too much time getting in. Since the weather was still …shit, we decided today would be the day we’d spend at MONA – Museum of Old and New Art.

20131011_RCH_4039 20131011_RCH_4040 20131011_RCH_4042Right from the start I was blown away with MONA, and then it only got better. The gallery starts from the very bottom of a basement that feels very much like a Bond villain lair – it was ridiculously cool. Everything.

20131011_RCH_4047 20131011_RCH_4048Then there were the exhibitions themselves. All sorts of stuff, like an interactive display that maps your heartbeat onto a light bulb, which is displayed in a train along with a everyone that did it before you. The row of lights eventually end up in a room that is filled with pulsating lamps, which gives a very animated feeling to the (otherwise impressive technically) display.

20131011_RCH_4050There was the world’s most frustrating table-tennis table (it stopped being fun after exactly 10 seconds).

20131011_RCH_4057 20131011_RCH_4059One of the more bizarre displays was by Harry Darger, a man whose work was discovered posthumously. It’s not the work itself that was the most bizarre (though, it is quite odd, like, why do all the little girls have little boys genitals?), but the fact that there were some SIXTEEN-THOUSAND illustrated pages of it! Heck, even the title of this tome is fitting – The Story Of the Vivian Girls, In What Is Known As The Realms Of The Unreal, Of The Glandeco-Angelinnian War Storm, Caused By The Child Slave Rebellion. Or, simply, ‘In The Realms Of The Unreal’ for short.

20131011_RCH_4061 20131011_RCH_4063 20131011_RCH_4064 20131011_RCH_4065 20131011_RCH_4066 20131011_RCH_4067So many fantastic pieces of modern abstract art, which my description as an unenlightened would cause the art elite to hiss at me with disgust. I can say that I thought that this piece made of thousands of random insects and other inanimate objects looked fantastic. As did this enormous room filled with old furniture and televisions showing (I’m sorry if I get this wrong) interviews with people from Turkey.

20131011_RCH_4072 20131011_RCH_4075One of our favourite pieces was this really odd multimedia installation called, Nowhere Less Now2, which was set inside the hull of an upside down ship, and projected onto two spherical surfaces. It was a thirty-minute video, loosely about odd coloured eyes (though, it did travel to all sorts of other themes, like past lives, illusions, and so much more). There was something amazingly haunting about this piece that made me feel really, really interested.

20131011_RCH_4079 20131011_RCH_4081 20131011_RCH_4084 20131011_RCH_4085My favourite paintings were an extensive collection by a painter, Balint Zasko. They were so simple, but there was something really beautiful about them (no, it wasn’t the thousands of genitals).

20131011_RCH_4090 20131011_RCH_4091There was a mechatronic digestive system, ‘Cloaca Professional’ that would be fed a meal, and it would then be passed through various digestive chambers (complete with gut bacteria) and that material would eventually be passed out the other side as synthetic faeces – yup, this machine turned food into poo (and, although it didn’t really look like poo, it certainly had the smell of poo…).

20131011_RCH_4087 20131011_RCH_4097I was surprised to see a (very, very large) installation by an audio artist that I quite like (thanks to Triple J’s Sound Lab program), Ryoji Ikeda. His music is incredibly surreal/minimalistic, and he often says it’s the sound of data (be it random digital data synthesized some way, or other data-related equipment, like hard-disk drives). It was really great being able to experience the full multimedia work this time. Risa wasn’t a fan of the glitch and extremely repetitive audio/video, but I loved the endlessly scrolling text that was perfectly shifting and changing with the music.

20131011_RCH_4096It felt a little out of place, but amongst all these amazing pieces of modern art, there were a few pieces of old art in there, too. Such as a few sarcophagi and lots of old coins/spearheads and aboriginal paintings. I understand how (especially with the sarcophagi) that being placed near these abstract modern pieces of art makes someone look at it differently (and I did look at the bizarre detail of all the hieroglyphics differently), but it still somehow felt a little out of place…

20131011_RCH_4098 20131011_RCH_4101I may as well try and describe some of the others that caught my eye… this unsettling piece featuring the face of the artist onto the body of a giant (and hairy) worm laying upon a pile of broken tombstones, breathing laboriously and uttering a repetitive phrase (in Flemish) over and over. And, this enormous sculpture of Buddha that was made from six tonnes of incense ash (though, I was more impressed by the mould).

20131011_RCH_4069 20131011_RCH_4070 20131011_RCH_4068 20131011_RCH_4104 20131011_RCH_4105There were even more pieces of artwork outside of the Bond villain lair, including this really intricate cement mixer sculpture, made to look Victorian-era/steam-punk – big love, as well as some giant wooden tepees and cool little Micky Mouse hand chairs. I could imagine it would be an amazing place to relax on a fine day, but since the weather was still so miserable, we were keen to get in the car. There is also a vineyard/winery (which was there first), several restaurants and a craft brewery, but it was all above our budget.

This was the first art exhibit that we have visited since leaving Brisbane, and it was honestly worth every one of the $20 that we paid for entry. Risa later told me that this is actually a private collection of a Tasmanian billionaire (who apparently made his fortune as a professional gambler…). To David Walsh, I say thank-you.

We had a little bit of time left before darkness, so we went for a drive around downtown Hobart. It’s a small town, but not surprisingly, there is a wealth of heritage buildings, which made for an interesting little drive.

From Hobart we were driving out towards Barilla Bay to get Risa some fresh seafood (it was conveniently near the only caravan park with availability). But, we didn’t make it that far… As we were climbing up a hill on the motorway, we started to hear a whistling sound. I noticed that the temperature was starting to climb so I pulled over and could hear the hissing of water… I can’t tell you how far my heart sank for those first few seconds, I thought this was another cracked head. But, I quickly topped up the coolant expansion tank and started the engine to get the cooling system working again. It seems I finally found the source of the coolant leak that has been eluding me for the past few weeks… One of the rear hoses that connects to the heater had a very small crack in it, and this is where the coolant was leaking from. I thought I’d fixed it when I bled the system and no more coolant was lost for the three days prior to today.

20131011_RCH_4107Anyway, we limped it down the hill to the next turnoff where I tried to repair it enough for us to keep driving. I was successful, however, when I tried to make the most of the cooling system being in pieces as a chance to fix the broken heater, I snapped a fragile plastic t-piece, which I wasn’t going to be able to fix, and without it I wasn’t going to be able to drive the car. So, it meant another call to RACQ to organise a tow and a rental car (so that I can go shopping to find one of these plastic t-pieces). We will fix the small piece that is broken for now, and as soon as possible, we will replace all the other heater hoses that also feel quite brittle…

150日目  10月 11日(金) MONA美術館

今朝は、ロスくんの大興奮の声で目覚めました。  りさぁ!! 外が雪で真っ白だよー!!!!


まさかオーストラリアで初の雪が降る中車中泊をすることになるとは予想ひていなかったなぁ。  羽毛布団、中シーツ、ブランケット、ヒートテック2枚重ねに靴下の完璧な防寒対策のおかげで、寒さはばっちりしのげました。







MONAとは、Museum  Of  Old And New Art の略で、その名のとおり古いアートと新しいアートが展示されている美術館です。

美術館は、けっこう広大な土地にあり、その入り口はなんとぶどう畑が広がっています。  あれ?なんだか美術館じゃなくて、ヴィンヤード(ぶどうを育てワインを作る場所)に来たみたい。

それもそのはず、この同じ敷地内ではなん本当にこのぶどうでワインを作ってうるのです!   しかもビール工場もある!



公園の様な芝の上にいくつかの造形物の展示、レストラン/バー (多分ここでテイスティングができる?) 結婚式やアートイベントなどなどが行えるような建物があったり。


そしてなんとスゴいのが、この美術館 普通のオーストラリアの美術館のように、政府のものではなくDavid Walshさんというホーバート出身でプロのギャンブラー(!!)の大資産家の個人のものだそうです。 すごい!







この美術館は、地下をくり抜いた様な洞窟のような作りになっていて、窓はほとんどありません。   壁は、クーバーピティーの地下の教会のような岩肌がむき出しの造りで、他はコンクリートなので、かなり無機質な感じですが、その分ライティングの上手さと共に作品の素晴しさを引き立てているように感じました。  ロスは、最初から最後までここの住みた〜い!を連発。


古いアートは、エジプトの王家の棺や、メソポタミア文明の象形文字が描かれた石盤など。  この古い品々は、ちょっと場違いな感じもしたけど、その古いアートの中にモダンなデザインを見いだすことができるかなー? という問いかけ的なものなのかな??




午後4時過ぎに退館し、そこからホーバートの街を車でぐるっと見て回る事にしました。  金曜の午後なので、すでに仕事を終えた人々がパブで一杯楽しそうにやっている姿が。  いいねー。

街は、海沿いに広がり、坂が多く、丘の上にも沢山の家々が見えます。 この街は、魔女の宅急便のモデルになったのでは? と言われている街。 たしかに、キキが辿り着いたあの島の感じに似てる〜


シーフードで有名な街なだけあって、港の側には、いくつかのテイクアウェイのショプがあります。  レストランもシーフードと書かれた看板がよく目につきました。

スーパーで久々の買い物を済ませ、キャラバンパークへ向かう為にハイウェイへ。   しばらくするとなんだかデリちゃんが奇声をあげていることに気づき、、、、エンジンの温度が一気に上がって、どうも様子がおかしいので、車を停めてボンネットを開けると、、、、、



どうやらエンジンを冷却するパイプが壊れ、エンジンが熱くなってしまったよう。 でもすぐに異変にきづいたので、エンジンはセーフ。 でもこれ以上運転はできないので、水を足し、温度を下げてから、100m程の場所にあるハイウェイの出口までなんとか車を進め安全な場所に停車し、チェック。



車が動かなくなった場所からキャバンパークはなんと3km程でした。 あとちょっとだったのにね笑





Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s